Portuguese Jewellery shaped with Love -

Portuguese Jewellery curated by AORP

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Current Affairs

Portuguese Jewellery X MAAT Raw Material

The Association of Jewellery and Watch-Making of Portugal (Associação de Ourivesaria e Relojoaria de Portugal, AORP) and the Art, Architecture and Technology Museum (Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia, MAAT) get together to make known the seven young creators representing new Portuguese jewellery. The designers present their collections in their own name at the store and will develop an exclusive edition inspired in the museum. Art, architecture, technology.

Art, architecture, technology. The Portuguese jewellery is nowadays projected as a form of creative expression, where the tradition of the technique and noble materials are combined with new perspectives, textures and materials. Where everything is raw material for creation.

AORP joins MAAT to present, at the museum’s store, seven young creators who redefine the codes of Portuguese jewellery.

Joana SantosVangloriaAna PinaKathia BuchoMater Jewellery TalesRomeu Bettencourt and Dalila Gomes were the designers selected to participate in the initiative “Portuguese Jewellery X MAAT: Raw material”. In turn, the seven author’s brands will be individually, for a period of two months, on sale at the store of MAAT, together with the two permanent brands, Maria Avillez e Leonor Silva.

The selection represents a new generation of jewellers, who combine the tradition of the art with new contemporary design concepts. To Fátima Santos, Secretary General of AORP, “Portuguese jewellery has new protagonists. Coming from very different areas, such as architecture, art, design and even marketing and advertising, they bring to Portuguese jewellery new tools and raw materials, not only literally, because they like to try new materials, but especially at the level of concepts and approaches influenced by their training, experience and personal signatures.”

The project culminates with the creation of an exclusive collection, inspired in the building of MAAT, a project by the British architect Amanda Levete, which was already distinguished at international level with awards such as the Best Museum Architecture of the Year and the Best of Best Iconic Awards 2017.

“This partnership with MAAT has a double mission: on the one hand, to present the new designers, who have here a showcase for the whole world, on the other hand to create a collective challenge through which it is possible to show how Portuguese jewellery is at the moment very versatile and multifaceted, with proposals for all tastes, which is our motto in our international campaign Portuguese Jewellery À La Carte”.

It should be reminded that, in 2017, AORP joined Serralves Museum in Porto, with the creation of an exclusive collection inspired in the architecture of the museum and of Casa de Serralves. The initiative “Portuguese Jewellery Serralves Special Edition” gathered six brands and was in exhibition an on sale for a year at the museum’s store.

Joana Santos Jewellery – dec 18/jan 19
Vanglória Jewellery Design – feb/mar
Ana Pina – apr/may
Kathia Bucho Jewelry – june/july
Mater Jewellery Tales – aug/sept
Romeu Bettencourt – oct/nov
Dalila Gomes Jewellery – dec 19/jan 20

With a degree in architecture, Joana Santos has always looked at jewellery with great curiosity, which took her, in 2013, to start her path of discovery and learning. She did not fail to transport to her pieces all the knowledge and experience of her original training; her design is minimal and geometric and she is inspired by architectural forms, but also by the movements of the nature and art, making the contrast of the rationality of the line with the delicateness of the technique and the unpredictability of detail.

RAW MATERIAL: Fishing thread
“In the bottom of the sea there are white terrors
Where plants are animals And animals are flowers. (…)
But no matter how beautiful each thing is
It has a monster hanging.”

The poetry of Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen served as inspiration to the collection Ouriço (hedgehog) of Joana Santos, representing her most artistic and conceptual side, expressed in the conjugation of the nobles of silver with the malleability and exuberance of the red fishing thread.

Vanessa Pires is the designer and creator of Vanglória jewels. With a degree in Marketing and Advertising, it was in jewellery that she found her passion. Her creations, conceived in an artisanal manner, using traditional techniques, have a strong conceptual component, and result from the fusion of the concrete world and the forms and intangibility of emotions, in an alchemical process that gives rise to daring jewels, which are full of symbolism.

RAW MATERIAL: Nautilus shell
The Golden Proportion, also known as Phi, it can be found in countless elements of the universe and is considered by many as a divine manifestation of perfect beauty. One of those elements is nautilus pompilius shell, which serves as inspiration for Nautilus collection, of Vangloria. A fascinating natural representation of the geometrical construction of the Fibonacci spiral, where the division of any sequential number by the number before will tend to Phi.

Ana Pina’s collections combine her experience in architecture with jewellery traditional techniques and contemporary design concepts, in the creation of pieces with an inspiration markedly abstract and geometrical. Unique pieces or limited collections unite parts of a common vocabulary, in a game of contrasts and textures, geometric relations and asymmetries, as if they were letters composing words inserted in a larger text.

RAW MATERIAL: Set square
The creativity of Ana Pina is designed with rules and a set square. In lines that intersect with each other, perfect angles and modular shapes. Geometry, structure, balance. The triad takes shape in the Modular collection of Ana Pina, inspired in the repetition and variation of the architectural features. In this fusion of two worlds, Ana Pina has in the set square the instrument of creation. The objectivity of function is full of emotion in the legacy of talent that she inherited from her father, architect and the original owner of her metallic set squares.

Attracted by the elegant simplicity of the minimalist lines, Kathia Bucho wanders between mechanical structures and geometrics forms extracted from her original urban environment, introducing in her work unexpected details which result in ergonomic sculptures as a small extension of the bodies using them. From the traditional work of classic jewellery with noble materials to the use of plastics, nylons and rubbers, from the initial draft on paper to the digital creation, Kathia explores her daily universe, transforming it into pieces which reflect a true independent artistic vision.

The urban universe and its dichotomy serve as scenario to the creation of Kathia Bucho. Her collection City Affairs reflects the way how we integrate into the cities we live in. She reveals defined shapes and edges, representing the city architectural context and emphasizes textures which suggest the concrete and night flashing lights. The collection symbolises the allegoric representations of negative vs positive and vibrating energy of the urban environment.

To tell stories, stories that remain in memory. Reason that took Sara Coutinho, trained as product designer, to found MATER jewellery tales. Her work is based on the historic, cultural and human legacy, where she tries to reflect a fragile territory with sensitiveness, objectivity and sensuality. Each piece is the result of fragments of the world that we live in and dream of. Geometrised interpretations which suffer successive simplifications for these memories to remain, through the jewels.

RAW MATERIAL: Portuguese Pavement
“Sea of stones flooding our streets, singing harsh poetry.” The Portuguese Pavement is a historical and cultural legacy, which is very similar to the art of creating a jewel. A know-how which is passed from generation to generation, and which materialises in each tile. The tradition of design, the manual execution, the attention to detail. The analogy shapes the collection “Calçada” (pavement) of Mater Jewellery Tales, where by uniting the two arts, the identity of a country is engraved.

Romeu Bettencourt was born in Azores and dreamed of being a pilot since he was a child. His passion for aerospatial dynamics and mechanics almost took him to follow the laws of engineering, but he was involved by the freedom of creation instead. It is in this paradox that his pieces are built. Starting with experiences and plastic modelling, he designs jewels of a subtle elegance. Between the geometry of design and the lightness of movement, between the mechanical lines and the seductively feminine shapes.

The movement of the propellers of an aircraft has always seduced Romeu Bettencourt. The strength and the energy of rotation, the precision of the aerodynamics laws, the rigueur of symmetry. The collection Cuddle of Romeu Bettencourt represents his fascination for aerospatial engineering. Creating the illusion of a permanent movement, his jewels reveal a logic that is almost mathematical clothed in a graceful delicateness, in a perfect balance.

Simplicity, versatility and balance are some of the underlying principles of the design of Dalila Gomes’s jewels. With a degree in architecture, the signs of her training are evident in her pieces, as is the case of geometry, structure, the ‘asymmetric symmetry’, movement, optical illusion, sensation of infinite, among others. In the jewels of Dalila Gomes everything is defined and drawn to detail, everything must be logical and clear, rules by the right proportions. In a quest for perfection, the rigueur of the shapes and the quality of finishing are valued.

The passion of Dalila Gomes for architecture is revealed in all her creative process. Starting with design, where she always uses paper. Accomplice of her experiments, tests and drafts. The white canvas for her fertile imagination, which has in the material itself an inspiration, for its lightness, contours, creases, shadows, which characterise so much her aesthetics. But is also in the paper that starts the modelling of her pieces. Exploring the versatility and the disengagement of the material when experimenting new shapes. Her collection Twice is a reflex of this. An intersection of convex and concave shapes, which create an optical effect that is almost hypnotising.

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